Issue #3 - July 2011: Page 1 / Page 2

Previous Issues

In this issue:
FASHION: My Jamaican Guy / INTERVIEW: Julie Verhoeven / INTERVIEW: 6 Objects Of Desire - Neil Moodie / INTERVIEW: Marios Schwab / ILLUSTRATED: NARS Hair & Make-up / INTERVIEW: John Akehurst / ART: Ali Kazim / BLOGS: HairBlogsYeahhh! / FOUND: London by Juan Mateus

FASHION: My Jamaican Guy

Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 Fashion Jamaican Guy Mikolai Berg

The definition of essential: Patti Smith once said 'My sunglasses are like my guitar.' Enough said. Photographer & Mono. Contributing Editor, Mikolai Berg shot this mix of contemporary & vintage sunglasses in London just to make clear the fact that it's hot, hot, hot in the city.

'The most interesting part is always where you get to at the end of the project. It was such a pleasure shooting Trissan, she is such an incredibly beautiful girl who really opened my eyes to black aesthetics in the most interesting of ways. The once winner of the Carribean model of the year kept us entertained all day with stories of her hometown in Jamaica. From every angle, an entirely captivating experience for a photographer.'


Photographer: Mikolai Berg
Stylist: Matt Ryalls
Hair: Roku Roppongi using Keihl's
Make up: Veronica Martinez

Model: Trissan at D1 Models

Photography assistant: Magda Siwicka
Retouching: Postmen


INTERVIEW: Julie Verhoeven

Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. Julie Verhoeven1 Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. Julie Verhoeven2 Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. Julie Verhoeven3 Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. Julie Verhoeven4

Illustrator & designer Julie Verhoeven is renowned for her now iconic style. Fashion luminaries such as Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Loewe & Versace have all had the Julie Verhoeven treatment. Verhoeven's large body of work & numerous collaborations are testament to gritty perserverance paying dividends. Her singular vision & 'Rock & Roll meets rainbow' aesthetic gives birth to expressive figures, both glamorous & debauched. She has worked with brands such as H&M, Dover Street Market, Lancome, Selfridges as well as Primal Scream & Fischerspooner.

Mono. grabbed a quick Q&A with Ms Verhoeven, who also very kindly took some photographs of her studio for us...

Mono. What did you want to be when you grew up?
Julie Verhoeven: I wanted to do something in fashion but didn't know what.

M. Does it get easier or harder as you get older?
JV: It's become easier without a doubt, or maybe its just about caring less.

M. What's it like inside your head?
JV: A mushy pile of unsealed bin-bags; billowing out rubbish sporadically…

M. What gives you the greatest joy?
JV: I can narrow this down to 3 things:

1. Dancing like an adolescent.
2. Lying horizontal in my bed.
3. Bear-hugging a loved one.

M. Who or what is your most enduring source of inspiration?
JV: City life & pop music.

M. What do you believe in?
JV: This is it. Only one stab at it.

M. What are you working on right now?
JV: Predominately it's all sorts of stuff for an autumn exhibition at ZINGERpresents, Amsterdam.
Plus a return to a little editorial work.

M. Career high to date?
JV: Still awaiting but hope it's drawing closer.


M. What do you when you are having a bad day?
JV: I either withdraw from the world & lie flat on my back in the dark, or I go to the library in a grump, in the hope to re-energise & excite myself, as tragic as it sounds.

M. What event that has had the biggest impact on your life?
JV: There are several - the death of my parents to cancer, the fleeting arrival & departure of 'Step-mother from hell' & my divorce.

M. What's happening next for you?
JV: Turning my flat upside down & summer jury service!

M. 3 albums that make you happy to be alive?
JV: Bat out of Hell - Meat Loaf, Rumours - Fleetwood Mac & Saturday Night Fever - Bee Gees.

M. Who would you like to interview?
JV: Molly Parkin.

Words: Matt Ryalls
Images: Julie Verhoeven


INTERVIEW: 6 Objects of Desire - Neil Moodie

Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 6 Objects of Desire: NeilMoodie1 Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 6 Objects of Desire: NeilMoodie2 Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 6 Objects of Desire: NeilMoodie3 Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 6 Objects of Desire: NeilMoodie4 Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 6 Objects of Desire: NeilMoodie5 Mono. Issue 3-July 2011 6 Objects of Desire: NeilMoodie6

The Elvis Iconic Head: Inspired by the Cloche hat.
This hat is part of an ongoing collaboration with designer Flora McLean, House of Flora, based on iconic hairstyles. The Cloche Hat is a bell shaped hat invented by Caroline Reboux in 1908, which became very popular in the 1920's. In the 1960's designer Rudi Gernreich took the idea & made one in the shape of a bobbed hairstyle. Just seeing that one hat picture has changed my perception of how to dress the head forever.

My Dog Buster: the Miniature Schnauzer.
I've had Buster since he was 6 weeks old. I never thought he would have so much influence on me but seeing him run around the park without a care in the world makes me feel very happy. It also helps me think with more clarity, when I take Buster for a walk it is my time away from phone calls or emails. I've had so many ideas for hair & hats when I've been walking him, I often wonder if I'd have had as many without him, he's the one that makes me get outside & get some fresh air.

My Film collection.
My love of film started when I was very young, after my dad made us watch 'The Dam Busters'. I loved how a film could tell a story in a short space of time. I originally began to collect videos but have now changed my whole collection to DVD - I now have nearly 3000 DVD's. I've seen more inspiring hairstyles in film, TV & documentary's, than in any other form of media.

The Book: Cutting Hair the Vidal Sassoon Way.
When I first started training to cut hair I didn't work at Vidal Sassoon because it didn't exist in Birmingham. But I did acquire a book that has stayed with me for the rest of my life. I was always obsessed with Sassoon & the precise geometric haircuts they invented, I guess it's also my love of the Bauhaus art movement, which Vidal was so influenced by too. This book was like gold dust for me.


A Photograph of me aged 18.
I have a photograph of myself that was taken in a photo-booth in 1985. I'd had my haircut quite radical: shaved the fringe off & had straightened my hair with giant straightening irons, no mini ceramic ones back then! I was posing with my denim jacket on back-to-front; I thought I was the dog's bollocks. When I look at this photograph it reminds me of how I didn't care about how I looked, dressed, etc. It's a constant reminder to me that you must always be true to yourself. Never worry what other people think of you, worry more about whether you like them. That's how I felt when that picture was taken.

Photograph of Twiggy by Barry Letegan.
In 2007, I met Barry Lategan, the photographer whose work I'd always admired. He allowed me to buy a print of the famous Twiggy picture he took in 1966 with her short haircut, cloggy black mascara & jumper. For me it's one of the most timeless fashion pictures ever taken. When you look at the print there's no re-touching on the hair or skin. A moment in fashion history that will be remembered forever. It takes pride of place in my living room, near my picture of Kate Mos swith the fairy lights by Corinne Day - another timeless image. So few fashion images become iconic.

Neil Moodie is an internationally renowned session stylist, working for Britsh & Japanese Vogue, i-D, Wonderland & Margaeret Howell, as well as one half of award winning hairdressers, Windle & Moodie.


INTERVIEW: Marios Schwab

Mono. July Marios Schwab interview 1 Mono. July Marios Schwab interview 2 Mono. July Marios Schwab interview 3 Mono. July Marios Schwab interview 4

I met Marios Schwab when we both taught on a fashion degree in a London University a few years ago. In my new role as fashion reporter for Mono. one of the first people I wanted to speak to was Marios Schwab; he designs clothes with an intelligence & subtlety that I admire.

Some of his early collections remind me why I had always wanted to do design clothes. With influences from body-conscious Azzedine Alaia & more sculptural Claude Montana, Marios seems to understand the ongoing dilemmas I face each day as a woman. To be feminine or to be tough? I try to be both depending of how I feel & who I want to be that day - or whom I am going to be working with.

I wanted to get an insight in to his process & to gather what drives him & feeds his imagination. I know he is a good-looking, funny man with a dry wit but he is also a serious designer with ambition. He works on his own label from his studio in Dalston, east London, he is also is head designer at Halston in New York. We manage to slot a telephone interview into his hectic schedule.

I am greeted with 'Hello Daahling' - his accent reminds me a tiny bit of Zsa Zsa Gabor.

Flora McLean: Ballet & architecture were your other career options, do these professions influence your design process?
Marios Schwab: That's true, yes. My Mother was a topographist & my Dad an underwear engineer. I had a passion for proportion & the body I guess. I saw quite a lot of ballet when I was little. My mum used to play a lot of classical ballet music & I liked dancing on a Sunday with my best friends – a young boy's dream that never happened. For me at this time it was really playing with fabric, playing & experimenting on paper, my mum kept all the paintings & drawings, she still has the archive.

FM: Did the fact your Father was an engineer in a bra factory influence your chosen career?
MS: He was actually the manager of Triumph International. There was always lots of underwear lying around the house. I just like details, so many small pieces, so many details on them; this is what was interesting to me. I asked my parents if I could join a fashion college from a very young age. I left Greece at 15 & moved to Austria for next 4 years.

FM: Your designs have been noted for both femininity & toughness? Who are your favorite female icons?
MS: It's not a specific person when I talk about the clothes I design; it's a woman of confidence who displays her sexuality in a non-challenging way. She is a sensual woman; she plays within her own rules. I like a woman who has a character; she remains a subject of her own right. She decides rather than being overloaded by something that is the obvious choice? I like to create fashion about enhancing the character of a strong personality.


FM: Did you watch films as a child?
MS: I always loved the 1940s movies & obviously the 1990s.

FM: Did you have a favourite super model?
MS: I had a source book that I created when I was 13 with cuttings from English & French Vogue. I used to collect all the super models each one had 10 pages - I would make a collage of all of the photo shoots I liked. I made little previews for the first pages.

What I was really interested in was the intensity of the character & the emotions. The environment they were in was quite fascinating as at the time there were some amazing photographers creating very strong images. It wasn't just about the fashion it was the combination; it was the whole package, the attitude & how to represent this woman with her very strong personality. It was very different to now, as it was about women that were women, not girls.


Words: Flora McLean


July Page 2»

ILLUSTRATED: NARS Hair & Make-up / INTERVIEW: John Akehurst / ART: Ali Kazim / BLOGS: HairBlogsYeahhh! / FOUND: London by Juan Mateus