Issue #3 - July 2011: Page 1 / Page 2

Previous Issues




In this issue:
FASHION: My Jamaican Guy / INTERVIEW: Julie Verhoeven / INTERVIEW: 6 Objects Of Desire - Neil Moodie / INTERVIEW: Marios Schwab / ILLUSTRATED: NARS Hair & Make-up / INTERVIEW: John Akehurst / ART: Ali Kazim / BLOGS: HairBlogsYeahhh! / FOUND: London by Juan Mateus





ILLUSTRATED: NARS Hair & Make-up

Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Illustrated: HAIR and MAKEUP-NARS.Slide1 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Illustrated: HAIR and MAKEUP-NARS.Slide2 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Illustrated: HAIR and MAKEUP-NARS.Slide3 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Illustrated: HAIR and MAKEUP-NARS.Slide4 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Illustrated: HAIR and MAKEUP-NARS.Slide5

Artist & regular Mono. contributor, Lucie Russell, illustrates the hairstyles of iconic musicians using NARS cosmetics. Here make-up becomes the perfect medium for articulating the often changable image of successful artists.

"Image is a construct & success, something indefinable. They are intimately entwined. The process of applying make-up & creating a hair style has the transformative power to give birth to a character that can both mask & protect the wearer."

 

Images: Lucie Russell

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INTERVIEW: John Akehurst

Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 1 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 2 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 3 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 4 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 5 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 6 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 7 Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 Interview: John Akehurst 8

British fashion photographer, John Akehurst has taken 'pictures' for seminal magazines such as The Face, Dazed & Confused, Pop, French Vogue & Arena Homme Plus. Discussing a 15 year career that spans 3 decades, this charming man shares his story & his thoughts on how the fashion industry has changed & the future of magzines.

Mono. How long have you been taking photographs?
John Akehurst: I've been taking pictures commercially since about 1995 I think. My breakthrough story was in 1997, so I must have been shooting something for The Face & Arena Homme Plus in '95. I was still assisting Albert Watson in New York around that time.

When I came back to London I bumped into Karl Templar on the street – I had worked with him when I was assisting Albert. He said something like 'You know what you're doing, you should shoot something for The Face.' I think he put me with Nancy (Rohde) & later with Polly (Banks).

We shot some front section stuff for The Face, that would have been about '96 & then I think I started shooting main fashion stories around '97.

M. What was it that made you decide to be a photographer?
JA: I was 18 & I was, like everybody, into music & really into The Face. Undoubtedly, like a lot of photographers & stylists of my generation The Face was amazing. I remember thinking, I love this, this is great, it's about underground music, counter-culture...

I was on an academic route at the time, studying mathematics & physics A levels. I studied mathematics at university for a year but eventually dropped out. I wanted to do fine art originally but I couldn't get in, as I had no formal training, so I did photography. I had always taken pictures of everything around me from the age of 12 & I thought it would be easier to get onto a degree course.

M. What made you want to be a fashion photographer?
JA: The turning point that really moved me into fashion was when I started my degree in photography. It was all social documentary, which I found really tedious - loads of theory & ugly images. I went upstairs & started talking to all the fashion students. They were the most fun.

 

I came across a Bruce Webber story in L'Uomo Vogue. I really loved the 'naturalness' of them [Laughs] the beautiful men & women & the natural outdoor feel. I found them really appealing & new at the time.

Of course, looking back, it's all completely contrived but there was something about it. There is a very classic beauty in Webber's imagery that I really love; it's an almost archetypal Greek aesthetic, very heroic. There was something in Webber's work & Herb Ritt's work as well, that really rang a bell with me.

That kind of imagery alongside The Face, switched me onto fashion photography. I was also going out with a fashion student at the time. I really got into cloth & the cut of clothes. For my degree show I took portraits of people I found interesting, cool looking people from college or from the street. From that I got my first commercial job in London shooting a 'Bruce Webber' style casual clothing catalogue. [Laughs]

Continued»

Words: Matt Ryalls
Images: John Akehurst

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ART: Ali Kazim

Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 2011 ART: Ali Kazim Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 2011 ART: Ali Kazim Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 2011 ART: Ali Kazim Mono. Issue #3 July 2011 2011 ART: Ali Kazim

Pakistani-born artist Ali Kazim has just graduated from the MFA Painting at the Slade School of Art, London, yet has been exhibiting for over a decade across the world, from Pakistan to England, Sri Lanka to the United States.

Kazim's recent show enticed viewers with a sinuous form of delicately woven human hair, simultaneously beautiful & unsettling.

Mono. So, why hair?
Ali Kazim: I'm interested in exploring the human body because it is one of the most complex organisms in the universe. Previously I've used materials such as pigments, paper and leather, which represent external skin.

More recently I’ve started using human hair, which is a material literally taken from the body. Using hair, I wanted to make a form inspired by the anatomical intestine structure, which articulates the interior world. My selected material & its characteristics allowed me to let things happen naturally.

M. Do you think people are uncomfortable with the idea of human hair out of context?
AK: Hair has been used by artists for many years, so I believe it is now expected as an art material.  I personally didn’t get any negative reactions or cringes. However, this is rather subjective, I know some people can be totally disgusted by cut off or plucked hair & wouldn’t want to see it. 

Hair has very interesting qualities when it is part of the body – it is attractive & gives one's identity - but when it is cut off or plucked out it can be repulsive too.

M. It may just be another artist's material, but is there any particular significance to where the hair came from?
AK: The hair I’ve used for this work belongs to people I don’t know, which I collected from local barber shops. I have looked into the significance of hair in different cultures and religions, but there isn’t a greater conceptual relevance, I’m more interested in the material & its aesthetic qualities. 

M. So are aesthetics more important than meaning?
AK: I think both aspects are equally important - there should always be a balance between the two.  I enjoy making, so for me that is as important as the concept.  Often I start out with a concept & try to explore it visually, then it can evolve into something else.  But I also work the other way, by starting to make something that consequentially takes on meaning.

 

M. Your work has an element of fragility & impermanence about it. Will you try to preserve it or do you see it's decay as integral?
AK: Our life is not eternal: fragility & change reflects life. I think sometimes the fragility & impermanence of the work is more beautiful than its stability. I won’t preserve it; decay is an integral part of the piece.

M. The future?
AK: The world is changing so rapidly, and artists are adapting accordingly. Artists will always experiment with new technology, but I don't believe the traditional mediums will ever be less relevant.

I am part of this changing world and I know it influences me, though I find it hard to pinpoint exactly how. I think all artists are aware of technology and try to work alongside or with it. I welcome these changes and I try to adapt to them.

As for my work, I can't predict what work I'll be making in the future.

AliKazim.net


Kazim won the Land Securities Studio Award, which provides a studio at the Bow Art Trust for a year, culminating in a show.

FURTHER READING:
The Danger of Hair by Annekes Melik
Purity & Danger: An analysis of the concepts of pollution & taboo by Mary Douglas

Words: Imogen Webb
Images: Vipul Sangoi

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BLOGS: Tumblr - HairBlogsYeahhh!

Self expression, Hair blogs yeah!
Publish/Post,
Re-post.

Capturing a moment in time.
It's My So-Called Life.

Bedrooms. Woodlands
Dye!
Dye!
Dye!

Permanent / Semi-Permanent.
Is this real?

We.
Are.
Hair.

Sex. Bi. Straight. Gay.
Wash-in / wash-out.
Likes. Camera. Reaction.

Achingly youthful faces stare wanly into webcams,
Snippets of bedrooms revealed in the background.

Some girls & boys pout enticingly,
Others never make direct eye contact.

 

All have the well-studied coolness & polished poise of blossoming teens -
emerging from the awkward chrysalis of last school term.

Being an outsider = Fucked up (?)
………Fuck Yeah!


Whilst the Tumblr community is 100% international, the rainbow pictures of hair-dyed teens seem so saturated with alternative Americana that, to the untrained eye, any one of these images could be a still from 'My so called life'.

The methods may have changed & the need to self-publicise may now be ubiquitous but the content speaks a language for all ages.


Check out Bleach, London for dip dyes, super cool colour, dyed in roots & temporary colour sprays & stencils - Bleach Topshop, 214 Oxford Street, London W1 & Bleach Dalston, 240 Kingsland Road, Lond E8.

All images taken from Sex Hair.♥ & FuckYeahDyedHair
Words: CONVINCING.tv

CONVINCING.tv is a poet & artist who works in collaged writing & digital formats.

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FOUND: London by Juan Mateus

Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. FOUND: London/Juan Mateus Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. FOUND: London/Juan Mateus Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. FOUND: London/Juan Mateus Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. FOUND: London/Juan Mateus Mono. July 2011 / Issue 3. FOUND: London/Juan Mateus

Juan Mateus is a Colombian photographer based in London. His images are generated solely by iPhone, capturing his travels in & around London, as well as further afield.

He both documents his life as it unfolds & contrives his images to further articulate his viewpoint as an observer, creating pictures that demonstrate his innate ability to capture the moments of serenity that populate the everyday.

"I found the rotten apple in my fridge. The random documents on the road were photographed on Princess street, I took that photo because the light was really good. The paper 50p was outside a primary school on Redmans Road near Whitechapel, it was next to a poem & an ice cream someone had dropped.

 

The lottery ticket I found in one of my pockets - guess what, I didn't win. The banana skin was on the 205 to Paddington. I came accross the little man sat on a fence on my way to my old home in Putney, he was there the whole day. The Royal Opera House I found in Covent garden while walking with a friend one evening on our way to the South Bank, the shirt on the bollard is on Waterloo Bridge."

Juan's images can be viewed on his blog Photoplasty Photography.

Photoplasty.wordpress.com

Words: Matt Ryalls

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