Issue #5 - September 2011: Page 1 / Page 2

Previous Issues




In this issue:
FASHION: Mono. Lisa / INTERVIEW: 6 Objects of Desire - Tim Groen / FASHION: Paper Kisses / FASHION: Element Eden & Mono. / FASHION: AW2011 - Illustrated / DESIGN: The Lumiere, Tai Pei / ILLUSTRATED: Porno-in-Space / FASHION: Kermit Tesoro / ART: John Russell / ART: Inversion - James Bacchi-Andreoli / FASHION: Seasonal Rushes - Ebru Ercon / FOUND: An Archeology of Brick Lane - Imran Perretta





ILLUSTRATED: Porno-In-Space

Mono. Issue#5 September 2011 - Porn In Space slide1 Mono. Issue#5 September 2011 - Porn In Space slide 2 Mono. Issue#5 September 2011 - Porn In Space slide 3 Mono. Issue#5 September 2011 - Porn In Space slide 4 Mono. Issue#5 September 2011 - Porn In Space slide 5 Mono. Issue#5 September 2011 - Porn In Space slide 6

Porno-in-Space is a series of collages by the illusive illustrator Sylvester Dent Harold, who in his own words is:
American.
Born in 1982.
Currently located in London.
Harold's work is deeply influenced by his upbringing through Middle-American carnival culture.

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FASHION: Kermit Tesoro

Kermit Tesoro has been called the 'Alexander Mcqueen of the Philippines', maybe it's inevitable that comparisons have to be be made but there is far more to this designer than the skull heels that have become a cult classic. One gets the impression that Tesoro's talents & singular vision could take him in various directions - this is definitely going to be one of the most exciting designers to watch.

Mono. What are you doing right now?
Kermit Tesoro: I'm answering your question, answering inquiries & being sick; I'm drinking a mixture of cinnamon & honey in hot water. In a general context I have this tug of war of 'wanting to vent out my vomiting ideas' & 'the tasks'. The gravity feels like I have two elephants on my shoulders. That would be the most likely thing I'm doing everyday

M. What was is that made you fall in love with fashion?
KT: I have an infidelity issue, I'm usually torn between several disciplines aside from fashion.

M. Who or what is your most enduring source of inspiration?
KT: My design methodology has always been personal to me. Anybody can translate their feelings, may it be anger, love, melancholy, happiness, or what have you. It's always reflected from the artists' point of view, people would [either] understand or criticize [their output]. But the heart of the definition of their understanding or criticism is not a normative violation but only just the labeling. The way I design clothes isn't intended to follow on a certain coattail of a trend but to deviate from the trend itself. One must follow his own instinct & the trend will follow.

I want to translate people's deviations into my own creations. It's like a fashion interpretation of the biological or psychological deviation of a person. I've always been driven to create clothing articles based on inner conflicts or the inability to control one's inner impulses or failure to structure one's behavior in an orderly way. These traits are quantified into one as a form of aggression against others due to frustration that ignites nothing but rebellion. If my collections have violated one's conventional control or if the collection amazed people, either way I'm very grateful with the outcome. There is no agitation without provocation.

M. Outside of fashion, what influences & inspires you?
KT: My usual references: art movements, science, religion, socio-political issues, human behavior, life & death.

M. How often are you happy with your work?
KT: I'm not sure about happiness, I don't usually indulge in to it. I get sick & mental when things are in-progress, I'm happy when I see my vision come into fruition though.

M. Career high to date?
KT: Just by being recognized by the craft I'm doing. Everything I do is equally treated.

 

M. What do you still want to achieve?
KT: To achieve the form of craft that I'm still polishing.

M. What is fashion about now?
KT: Its about circumnavigating different medium, making statements that haven't been done or seen before. I notice that fashion now is all about recycling reference.

M. The fashion industry is faster than ever before – is this detrimental to creativity?
KT: I stick to what I'm capable of. I don't want this whole fast-phasing arena to sweep my feet off from the ground. I believe that it's fast in a sense that anyone can easily spread things around by the use of our modern media but they're still managed by a human being, hence they don't move unless something is done. They all wait for something to come out & we all get spoon-fed by the fast clicks. It's just like having a television news every second or minute. Fashion is a discipline & if I let my vulnerability subscribe to the industry it's like I have to compromise my tunnel vision to a heavy traffic.

M. Has the digital age made the fashion industry more accessible & democratic?
KT: Definitely accessible, the digital age made the gates of exclusivity open for all. It used to be an ungraspable experience & it's surprising to do such things in a heartbeat just by clicking. I'm not sure about the democratic part of it. The part where everyone can participate, do, undo, copy, paste, blog, reblog an image or an article, that's the part where it's somehow democratic. But for someone who's got an actual experience because he or she can have it, it's no longer accessible because not everyone shares the same social & economic condition.

M. 3 films that make you happy to be alive?
KT: Amelie, Ovosodo & Antes Que Anochezca (Before Night Falls).

M. Who would you like to interview?
KT: Seriously, Jesus Christ.



KermitTesoro.com


Interview & Images: Matt Ryalls

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ART: John Russell

Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - ART: John Russell - Slide 2 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - ART: John Russell - Slide 3 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - ART: John Russell - Slide 4 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - ART: John Russell - Slide 5 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - ART: John Russell - Slide 1 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - ART: John Russell - Slide 6

John Russell is a London artist working in a range of media, whose diverse output shares a hallucinatory intensity & a mordant sense of humour. Recent works include an 8x4m backlit digital print - a highlight of group show Dark Monarch at Tate St Ives & Towner- plus a 20-minute animated film, Vermillion Vortex - commissioned by Art Review. Mono. did the following Q&A via email.

Mono. Some people reading may not have seen the film yet. If you had to do an elevator-pitch for 'Vermillion Vortex'- what would you say?
John Russell: It is an animated film where the trajectory of events is cut off by an ending which has no narrative connection to what happens previously. It just ends. So "The End" is like the character in a horror movie (a psycho, monster or supernatural force) who kills everyone. On the other hand the end might point to a beginning (of something else). Like a revolution – it is the end for one set of people and the beginning for another.

M. Your opening, which describes Zarvyn's breakdown, is especially gripping. What is it about madness that fires your imagination?
JR: It's based on a someone I know indirectly. What interests me is the idea that if you make one mental jump or 'leap of faith', in Zarvyn's case the idea that the media is talking to him, then after this everything is entirely logical. That is, if you have decided to believe that the media are talking to you then you will be able to find patterns & codes within advertising which logically prove this. You just have to make the first jump & the rest is totally understandable/logical.

M. A caption in 'Vermillion Vortex' tells us this is a story about people "without class". Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
JR: It's neither. It's a condition. Or a fact. Or a claim. Or a performance. But I guess it's a condition people disapprove of generally. It's seen as being in the wrong position. Cash rich without the necessary markings and affectations of class (cultural capital). That's why people send their children to private/public school.

M. Beside material success, what has brought about the hegemonic displacement of Tony & Jane?
JR: That's all … money.

M. We are told they are cash rich but info poor, what info might have saved them from the apocalyptic ending?
JR: Nothing. No information. They have no connection or control over the ending. The logic of the ending exists outside of the logic of the situation in which Tony & Jane are living. It's an event. It just happens. Like a revolution. This can only be made to have chronological or historical sense posthumously. The story is about something which 'just happens'.

M. The film appears to be about damnation, but as you say also about revolution. How do the two connect?
JR: As with revolution (above) damnation is always a positive thing for one set of people. I included a quote in the film from Thomas Aquinas: "The blessed in the kingdom of heaven will see the punishments of the damned, in order that their bliss be more delightful for them."

 

M. Are we all insects drenched in Christ's blood, or were those quite specific insects in your last show?
JR: The insects will be the people who form the revolution.

M. The film evolved from a written text. Can you tell us something about the writing process?
JR: My initial idea, was a story I thought of ages ago – the idea of a reverse werewolf. Rather than a man who turns into a dog who does 'bad' things, there's a dog who turns into a 'man' and does bad things. I thought this had various interesting cinematic potentials. But then I became interested in this idea of The End.

M. The project has since become an installation and a book. Are there further possibilities?
JR: I'd like to do a live version of the film. I envision it as a prog rock spectacle - 'War of the Worlds' meets 'The Wall' meets 'Godspell' without the budget. But it means getting about five people together, two of whom (Rose Kallal & Mark Beasley, who did the soundtrack) live in New York. It nearly happened actually at the ICA in London in May. But then they got their budget slashed.

M. Vermillion Vortex is told through more or less still images. What advantages do they have over full speed animation or moving image?
JR: In fact, most feature films (live action or animation) are constructed from a series of set piece images, through a series of episodes or scenes which are themselves broken down into a series of images. For instance, cuts between close ups of faces during a conversation, establishing shots, etc. The movement in these scenes is largely non-essential & primarily required to continue the illusion of reality. Films like 'Le jettée' – composed of a succession of still photos – or Manga films use of static imagery. In both these examples the narrative in the films proceeds as seductively and unproblematically as any other film. You forget you are looking at still images. I was also interested in the idea of a still – within the context of a moving film – as something that is suggestive of movement.



Vermillion Vortex can be viewed on Vimeo

John-Russell.org

Words: Mark Sheerin

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ART: Inversion - James Bacchi-Andreoli




Mono. What inspires you?
James Bacchi-Andreoli: I fully embrace the fact that everyday is a new day & that you never know what could happen by the end of it. There are not enough hours in the day to do & see everything & that keeps me going. London in all its guises is  & has been a massive inspiration.

M. How much do other art forms influence your work?
JBA: I am always going to see exhibitions, watching films, visiting places of interest & trying to absorb as much as I can.

Although my practice has been firmly based in the 2-dimensions I have always secretly wanted to be an architect & my work has always had a sense of this desire. I have gravitated towards notions of pyschogeography & urban theories by such writers as Simmel, Tschumi & Debord & would watch films such as The Parallax View. I was intrigued with the many ways the city as a space could be mapped physically & mentally. Edgar Allen Poe's, 'Man of the Crowd' epitomized this sensation for me, where the narrator is delineating the madness of the city by following a stranger who ultimately vanishes.

M. This animation was a departure from photography - do you plan to use other media in the future?
JBA: If by departure you mean, unexpected then yes, but the subject of this recent animation, Inversion, I saw as a natural progression from the still shot it was based on.

Since also working with the recordings of a poet friend of mine in the projection, 'Panel Series I', I have been increasingly interested in the accompaniment of sound to my imagery. I was extremely lucky to catch the sound of a steam engine coming into Waterloo when I was recording at my studio for the 'Inversion' piece.

 

M. Do you hope to impart a certain message through your work or do you prefer to leave it open to interpretation?
JBA: I want to slow the viewer down. Your experience of moving from one place to another through the city becomes radically slowed down & this is represented in how you might respond to & read the image. It’s a kind of re-integration with what is around us...

My intention is to slow that down. At the same time, you have a very curious juxtaposition; the immediacy of the photograph as a way of capturing something versus the representation of the image which functions as a slowing down, your experience of the work would be one that is hopefully unraveling rather than immediate.

M. Do you have a plan?
JBA: In the near future, I am in a show curated by artist Richard Billingham called 'Simulacrum in Swansea' & I am also exhibiting in December with a abstract painter friend from Goldsmiths' in a show entitled 'Handkerchief of Clouds' (the title of which is taken from a Surrealist play).

For the foreseeable future: my plan is to continue enjoying life.



Bacchi-Andreoli.com

Words: Imogen Webb

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FASHION: Seasonal Rushes SS12 - Ebru Ercon

Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 1 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 2 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 3 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 4 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 5 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 6 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 7 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 8 Mono. Issue #5 September 2011 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 9 Mono. Issue #5 September 2010 - FASHION: Seasonal Rushes by Ebru Ercon - slide 10

Just ahead of international fashion weeks, Creative Director & Design Consultant, Ebru Ercon articulates her gut instincts, rushes & feelings for Spring Summer 2012.

'These are the things that I really feel are going to appear in the coming season, maybe not stragiht away but they are definitely going to start filtering in. Early 90s, soft textures & a slightly more spiritual, holistic view of things'.

 

Creative Direction: Ebru Ercon
Layout Design: Ovelia Transtoto

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FOUND: The Archeology of Brick Lane - Imran Perretta

Mono.Issue #5-FOUND-ImranPerretta-BrickLane-slide1 Mono.Issue #5-FOUND-ImranPerretta-BrickLane-slide2 Mono.Issue #5-FOUND-ImranPerretta-BrickLane-slide3 Mono.Issue #5-FOUND-ImranPerretta-BrickLane-slide4

Imran Perretta is London based artist whose work encompasses the assumed cultural narratives of found objects & photographic imagery.

'At the time, living in East London, I began to visit Brick Lane as an pilgrimage to my half Bengali heritage. Upon visiting the hallowed street, I began to notice a deep fissure in its geography, one seemingly based upon ethnicity, religion & wealth.

I decided to undertake an above ground archaeological exploration, to map this cultural shift between the white, middle-class & the Bengali/Muslim, working class territories of the area.

 

In undertaking this archaeological investigation, I systematically archived thousands of found objects, both photographically & physically & re-mapped Brick Lane into my own bedroom. The investigation began to unearth a cultural shift in the area, a new geography of segregation.'



Imperretta.com

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